History of Indian Clothing
Indians have mainly worn clothing made up of locally grown cotton. India was the one of the first places where cotton was cultivated and used even as early as 2500 BC during the Harappan Era. The remnants of the ancient Indian clothing can be found in the figurines discovered from the sites of the Indus valley civilization, the rock cut sculptures, the cave paintings, and human art forms found in temples and monuments. These scriptures show the figures of human wearing the clothes which can be wrapped around the body. Taking the instances of the Sari to that of turban and the dhoti, the traditional Indian wears were mostly tied around the body in various ways.
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Some of Indian Clothings are given below:-
1. Bagh print
Bagh Print is traditional Hand Block Print with natural colours an Indian Handicraft practised in Bagh, Madhya Pradesh, India. Derive its name from the village Bagh. Bagh Print fabric with geometric and floral compositions motifs is famous Textile printing from Madhya Pradesh. Bagh Prints received the geographical indication (GI) tag in 2008
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2. Banarasi sari
A Banarasi sari is a sari made in Varanasi, a city which is also called Benares or Banaras. The saris are among the finest saris in India and are known for their gold and silver brocade or zari, fine silk and opulent embroidery. The saris are made of finely woven silk and are decorated with intricate design, and, because of these engravings, are relatively heavy.
Their special characteristics are Mughal inspired designs such as intricate intertwining floral and foliate motifs, kalga and bel, a string of upright leaves called jhallar at the outer, edge of border is a characteristic of these saris. Other features are gold work, compact weaving, figures with small details, metallic visual effects, pallus, jal (a net like pattern), and mina work. The saris are often part of an Indian bride's trousseau. Depending on the intricacy of its designs and patterns, a sari can take from 15 days to a month and sometimes up to six months to complete. Banarasi saris are mostly worn by Indian women on important occasions such as when attending a wedding and are expected to be complemented by the woman's best jewelry. |
3. Bandhani
4. Choli
A choli (Hindi Nepali: चोली, Gujarati: ચોળી, Marathi: चोळी, ravike Tamil: ரவிக்கை, Telugu: రవికె(ravike), although choli is the preferred word Telugu Kannada: ರವಿಕೆ) is a midriff-baring blouse or upper garment in the Indian sari costume worn in India, southern Nepal, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, and other countries where the sari is worn.[citation needed] It is also part of the ghagra choli costume of India. The choli is cut to fit tightly to the body and has short sleeves and a low neck. The choli is usually cropped, allowing exposure of the midriff and the navel.
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5. Churidar
Churidars (Hindi: चुडीदार)(Urdu: چُوڑی دار), (Punjabi: ਚੂੜੀਦਾਰ), or more properly churidar pyjamas (ਚੂੜੀਦਾਰ ਪਜਾਮਾ), are tightly fitting trousers worn by both men and women in South Asia. Churidars are a variant of the common salwar pants. Salwars are cut wide at the top and narrow at the ankle. Churidars narrow more quickly, so that contours of the leg are revealed. They are usually cut on the bias, making them naturally stretchy. Stretch is important when pants are closefitting. They are also longer than the leg and sometimes finish with a tightly fitting buttoned cuff at the ankle. The excess length falls into folds and appears like a set of bangles resting on the ankle (hence 'churidar'; 'churi': bangle, 'dar': like). When the wearer is sitting, the extra material is the "ease" that makes it possible to bend the legs and sit comfortably. The word churidar is from Hindi and made its way into English only in the 20th century. Earlier, tight fitting churidar-like pants worn in India were referred to by the British as Moghul breeches, long-drawers, or mosquito drawers.
The churidar is usually worn with a kameez (tunic) by women or a kurta (a loose overshirt) by men, or they can form part of a bodice and skirt ensemble. |
7. Dhakai
8. Dhoti
The dhoti, also known as veshti, mundu, pancha or mardani, is a traditional men's garment worn in the Indian subcontinent, Known in ancient times as "Bharat Barsha". The use of dhoti is found predominant in countries like India, Nepal, Sri Lanka, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Myanmar and even in African sub-continent. It is a rectangular piece of unstitched cloth, usually around 4.5 metres (15 ft) long, wrapped around the waist and the legs and knotted at the waist, resembling a long skirt.
In India, the garment is predominant in the states of Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Telangana, Andhra Pradesh, Maharastra, Karnataka, Bihar, Madhya Pradesh, Assam, West Bengal, Odisha and Konkan and Goa. In the northern parts of Gujarat and southern parts of Rajasthan, the pancha is worn with a short kurta called kediya on top. In both north and south India, notably Bihar and parts of Sri Lanka, the garment is worn with a kurta on top, the combination known simply as dhoti kurta. In Bengal the kurta is known as a "panjabi" and the combination is called "dhuti panjabi". In Tamil Nadu, it is worn with a sattai (shirt). It is worn with a chokka (shirt) or a jubba in Andhra Pradesh. In Assam, the kurta is referred to as panjabi and the combination is known as suriya panjabi. In Pakistan, dhotis are commonly worn by men as a traditional dress in the Punjab. The lungi is a similar piece of cloth worn widely in Asia and Africa in a similar manner. |Panchekattu For in the indian states of Andhra Pradesh and Telangana, see Panchekattu. Long single cloth is worn especially by the priests of temples and is also worn generally among the people in the states of Andhra Pradesh and Telangana, with some variation throughout the rest of India. |
9. Dupatta
Dupatta (Hindi: दुपट्टा, Punjabi: ਦੁਪੱਟਾ/ਚੁੰਨੀ, دوپٹا, Urdu: دوپٹا) (alternative names include chādar-orni/orna (Bengali: ওড়না), chunri, chunni and pacheri) is a long, multi-purpose scarf that is essential to many South Asian women's suits and matches the woman's garments. The dupatta is most commonly used with shalwar kameez and the kurta, but is also worn over the choli or gharara. The dupatta has long been a symbol of modesty in South Asian dress.
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10. Farshi Pajama
Farshi Pajama (Also Paijama) (Urdu: فرشی پائجامہ, Hindi: फारसी पजामा) is a woman's dress that was worn between late 17th and early 20th centuries in Muslim courts of Oudh by royalty and ladies from privileged classes of Uttar Pradesh (formerly United Provinces of Agra and Oudh in North India.) Modeled after the flowing gowns worn by British noblewomen*, the complete outfit consists of three basic parts - The Kurta or a long shirt, the dupatta or the long stole which is an essential piece of cloth in traditional Indian wear covering the head and bossom, and the third and most important, the farshi pajama, which is a flowing two legged skirt held by drawstrings. It falls straight to the ankles from where it starts flaring flowing copiously onto the floor. The farshi pajama, in this era is often called Farshi Gharara, a term not used before mid 20th century and is considered a distortion. The confusion is said to be because of the Farshi Pajama's similarity with the Gharara.
A rough illustration of a farshi pajama. A woman wearing a farshi pajama while it is spread out, a woman wearing a farshi pajama holding it up while walking.(Img by me) Farshi means 'associated with the 'farsh' or floor' (for example farshi baithak which is associated with sitting on the floor). When combined with the word Pajama, the term evolves to mean a bottom-wear garment that falls generously on the floor, and trails as one walks, however in reality, during walking, an expert wearer holds the dress by carefully pulling up and folding the excess flaring trail and holding it in her left hand keeping the right one free which is when the dress does not trail. The large quantity (historically, 9-15 yards) of expensive cloth, embroidered using the art of goldwork (embroidery) and sterling silver wire threads (Karchob/Zari/Zardozi etc.), used to make a farshi gharara mainly reflects the grandeur and extravagance of the nobles and rulers of that era. Different eras brought changes to the fashion and cuts of the dress. These variations were also dependent from one princely state's court to another. |
11. Gagra choli
Gagra choli or Ghagra choli, which is also known as Lehenga choli, is the traditional clothing of women in Rajasthan Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, Sindh, Haryana, Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand, Punjab, Jammu & Hindi speaking Terai region of Nepal. It is a combination outfit of a Lehenga, tight Choli and a Dupatta.
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12. Gamucha
Gamucha (also gamocha, gamchcha, gamcha) is a thin, coarse, traditional cotton towel found in India and Bangladesh that is used to dry the body after bathing or wiping sweat. Gamucha is the local term for a sweat towel. It is often just worn on one side of the shoulder. However its appearance varies from region to region. Gamucha has been traditionally worn as scarf by male folks of Orissa which was mentioned in Oriya Mahabharata by Sarala Dasa. Male villagers wear it as dhoti. Children of tribal communities in Orissa wear gamucha until their adolescence after which they wear dhoti. Weavers of traditional tantubaya or jugicommunity migrated from Bangladesh to Tripura and weavers of Orissa produce good quality gamucha. gamucha is most commonly found with check and striped patterns of red, orange or green. Plain white gamchhas with coloured (embroidered or printed) borders from Orissa and Assam (for traditional Assamese Gamucha, see Gamosa) are local handicrafts, and may be worn around the neck with traditional Indian attire. In western areas, gamucha is primarily made in red color and are plain like cloth. In southern India, gamucha is more coarse and are available in various dyes. Even homemade lightweight fur towels are also popularly termed as gamchhas. Gamucha are worn by the South Asian people, especially in the Indian states of Andhra Pradesh, Bihar, West Bengal, Jharkhand and the Purvanchal region, because they are not as thick as Western-style towels and better suited to the country's tropical, humid climate. In Afghanistan they are also used and are commonly referred to as dismaal. They may also be found in Central Asian, Middle Eastern and Turkish hamams as a traditional male loin cloth and towel worn during bathing and massage.
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13. Gandhi cap
The Gandhi cap (Hindi: गांधी टोपी) is a white coloured sidecap, pointed in front and back and having a wide band. It is made out of khadi. It takes its name after the Indian leader Mahatma Gandhi, who first popularised its use during the Indian independence movement. Worn commonly by Indian independence activists, it became a symbolic tradition for politicians and political activists to wear it in independent India.
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14. Gharara
A gharara (Hindi: ग़रारा, (Urdu: غراره) is a traditional Lucknowi garment, traditionally worn by Muslim women of Hindi Belt. It consists of a kurti (a short, mid-thigh length tunic), a dupatta (veil), and most importantly, a pair of wide-legged pants, ruched at the knee so they flare out dramatically. The knee area, called the gota in Urdu, is often elaborately embroidered in zari and zardozi work. Each leg of a traditional gharara is made from over 12 metres of fabric, often silk brocade (see Farshi Pajama).
Ghararas originated in Awadh region of Uttar Pradesh during the era of the Nawabs. During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, it was considered everyday attire among Muslim women of Hindi Belt particularly among women of Nawab and Taluqedars families. They were representative of the status of the person wearing them. Although they are not worn as everyday garment today as they once were, they still remain as popular wedding attire among Muslim women of Hindi Belt and also among Urdu speaking immigrates in Pakistan & Bangladesh. Ghararas were also made popular in Pakistan & Bangladesh, in the 1950s and 60s with popular public figures like Fatima Jinnah and Begum Rana Liaquat Ali Khan wearing them. |
15. Indo-Western
Indo-Western clothing is the fusion of Western and South Asian fashion. With increasing exposure of the Indian subcontinent to the Western world, the merging of women's clothing styles was inevitable. Many Indian and Pakistani women residing in the West still prefer to wear traditional salwar kameez and sarees; however, some women, particularly those of the younger generation, choose Indo-Western clothing.
The clothing of the quintessential Indo-Western ensemble is the trouser suit, which is a short kurta with straight pants and a dupatta. Newer designs often feature sleeveless tops, short dupattas, and pants with slits. New fusion fashions are emerging rapidly, as designers compete to produce designs in tune with current trends. Additional examples of the fusion that Indo-Western clothing represents include wearing jeans with a choli, salwar or kurta, adding a dupatta to a Western-style outfit, and wearing a lehnga (long skirt) with a tank top or halter top. |
16. Jamawar
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Jamawar or grown piece, is a special type of shawl made in Kashmir. "Jama" means robe and "war" is yard. The best quality of Jamawar is built with Pashmina. The brocaded parts are woven in similar threads of silk or polyester. Most of the designs seen today are floral, with the kairy (i.e. the paisley) as the predominant motif. Historically handmade items, some shawls took a couple of decades to complete; consequently, original Jamawar shawls are highly valued.Modern, machine-made Jamawar prints, produced in cities such as Kashmir and other parts of Pakistan, Punjab cost less to buy but handmade Jamawar are very expensive.
Today, the best and the most expensive Jamawar is woven in Kashmir.Third-generation family traders from a small town in UP called Najibabad have the most ancient collection of these exquisite jamawars which they are preserving by darning. This fabric is widely used in that country for bridal and special occasion outfits. The texture and weave of patterns is such that the fabric often gets caught when rubbed against rough surfaces (metallic embroidery, jewellery etc.) it must therefore be handled delicately when worn. Hand Made Jamawar Shawls have a very high monetary value and are occasionally worn by people. Kanika Jamawar is a high end variety of Royal Jamawar shawl. It is made with weaving sticks and the patterns are so finely done that front and back of the shawl are indistinguishable. Pashmina wool is used to make these shawls. Less than a dozen Kani Jamawar shawls are manufactured every year. The primary manufacturing centre for these shawls is Kashmir while some ancient hand-mended(darning) shawls also coming from Najibabad, U.P. |
17. Peshwaj
18. Jodhpuri Suit
A Jodhpuri suit (Hindi: जोधपुरी सूट) or Bandhgala is an Indian formal evening suit. Also known as Jodhpuri Suit, it is a western suit-like product, with a coat and a trouser, at times accompanied by a vest. It brings together the western cut with Indian hand-embroidery escorted by the Nehru collar. It is suitable for occasions such as weddings and formal gatherings.
The material can be silk or any other suiting material. Normally, the material is lined at the collar and at the buttons with embroidery. This can be plain, jacquard or jamewari material. Normally, the trousers match that of the coat. There is also a trend now to wear contrasting trousers to match the coat colour. |
19. Kantha
Kantha is a type of embroidery popular in eastern South Asia, especially Bangladesh and the Indian states of West Bengal and Odisha. In Odisha old saris are stacked on each other and hand-stitched to make a thin piece of cushion. This is normally used above a bed cushion or instead of a cushion. The use of kantha is popular in "Kantha saris" traditionally worn by women in Bengal.
Kantha stitching is also used to make simple quilts, commonly known as Nakshi Kantha. Women in Bengal typically use old saris and cloth and layer them with kantha stitch to make a light blanket, throw or bedspread, especially for children. Kantha is very popular with tourists visiting Bengal and is a specialty of Bolpur, West Bengal, India |
20. Karakul (hat)
A Karakul (or Qaraqul) hat (Urdu, Pashto, Persian: قراقلی; also known as a Jinnah Cap for its frequent use by the founder of Pakistan, Mohammad Ali Jinnah is a hat made from the fur of the Qaraqul breed of sheep, often from the fur of aborted lamb foetuses. The triangular hat is part of the costume of the native people of Kabul which has been worn by generations dating back in Afghanistan. The fur from which it is made is referred to as Astrakhan, broadtail, qaraqulcha, or Persian lamb. Qaraqul means Black fur in Turkic, similar types of hats are common among Turkic peoples. The hat is peaked, and folds flat when taken off of the wearer's head.
Hamid Karzai, Former President of Afghanistan, has often been seen wearing a Karakul hat The qaraqul hat is typically worn by men in Central and South Asia. The folding Qaraqul was worn by the former king of Afghanistan, Amanullah Khan in 1919. Thereafter, every Afghan king or president has worn this hat. It is a traditional Kabuli costume. |
21. Khādī
Khadi or Khaddar (Hindi: खादी, Bengali: খদ্দর/ খাদি, Urdu: کھدر, کھڈی ) is a term for handspun and hand-woven cloth from India, Bangladesh and Pakistan primarily made out of cotton.
The cloth is primarily woven from Hemp and may also include silk, or wool, which are all spun into yarn on a spinning wheel called a charkha. It is a versatile fabric, cool in summer and warm in winter. In order to improve the look, khādī/khaddar is sometimes starched to give it a stiffer feel. It is widely accepted in fashion circles. |
22. Khandua
Khandua (Also Maniabandi or Kataki) is a traditional "bandha" or ikat sari produced from Orissa worn by women during wedding and a special type of which is worn by Jagannath. The clothes contain texts of Gita Govinda on them. Kenduli Khandua, a special form of Khandua of 12 ft and 2 kani (each kani measures the length of a hand) is offered to Jagannath to wear as khandua with stanzas and illustration from Gita Govinda.
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23. Khara dupatta
24. Kota Doria
Kota doria or Kota Sari is one of many types of sari garments made at Kota, Rajasthan and Muhammadabad Gohna, Mau in Uttar Pradesh and its nearby area. Sarees are made of pure cotton and silk and have square like patterns known as khats on them. The chequered weave of a Kota sari is very popular. They are very fine weaves and weigh very less.
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25. Kurta
26. Langa Voni
A Langa Voni ( Langa Voni Telugu: లంగా ఓణీ,Pavadai Daavani Tamil: பாவாடை, Langa Davani Kannada: ಲಂಗ ದಾವಣಿ) is a traditional dress worn mainly in South India by young girls between puberty and marriage. It is also known as the two-piece saree or half saree. Young girls between puberty and marriage wear this dress. Girls younger than this may wear it on special occasions.
It comprises a Langa or Paavadai, a skirt which is tied around the waist using string, and a Voni, Oni, or Davani, which is a cloth usually 2 to 2.5 metres in length. The voni is draped diagonally over a choli (a tight fitting blouse, same as worn for saree). Usually, the garment is woven with cotton or silk. A variant of this is the Gagra choli of North India (the difference between the two being the direction of draping the voni or dupatta). |
27. Lehenga
Lehenga or lehnga or Ghagra or Pavadai in Tamil or Langa in Telugu and Kannada is a form of skirt which is long, embroidered and pleated. It is worn as the bottom portion of a Gagra choli or Langa Voni. It is secured at the waist and leaves the lower back and midriff bare. In North India and Pakistan a lot of embroidery work is done on a lehenga and is popular during the festivals and weddings.
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28. Lehenga Style Saree
Lehenga style saree is a new trend of saree introduced in India. This is an aesthetic blend of the traditional saree and a lehenga choli. A lehenga style saree is normally 4.5 meters to 5.5 meters long. To wear one, unlike a sari, one doesn't have to form pleats but may simply 'tuck and drape'.
Like that of a traditional saree, the lehenga style saree is worn over a petticoat (inskirt, pavadai in the south, and shaya in eastern India), along with a designer blouse called the choli, which is the upper garment. The style of choli mostly resembles that of the choli of a conventional Lehenga or Ghagra choli. Sometimes conventional blouses are also matched with lehenga style saree. The choli is mostly of a halter neck style, deep neck, or “backless” style. As with choli worn with the saree, these cholis are also embellished with kundan, beads, mirrors etc. |
29. Lungi
The lungi (/luŋɡi/), also known as a sarong, is a traditional garment worn around the waist in Indonesia, Bangladesh, India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Burma, Brunei, Malaysia, Nepal, Singapore, Thailand, the Horn of Africa and the southern Arabian Peninsula. It is particularly popular in regions where the heat and humidity create an unpleasant climate for trousers.
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30. Madisar
The Madisar aka Koshavam (Tamil: மடிசார்) is a way in which the sari is worn mostly by the womenfolk of the Brahmin community in Tamil Nadu, India. In the olden days this was the customary style in which the sari was worn by a woman after her marriage. Today, to suit modern trends and yet accommodate traditions, the madisar is worn by women on select festive occasions and religious ceremonies. Normally saris are six yards in length but since the madisar is worn in a different style, one requires a nine-yard sari to wear it. It is a very important part of the Iyer and Iyengar culture. Both Iyer and Iyengar Brahmin wear madisars for all important occasions in their lives, starting with marriage, followed by Seemantham (form of a baby shower), all important Puja, and death ceremonies.
Iyers and Iyengars wear Madisars differently. Iyers drape the Pallu (the layer of sari which comes over one's shoulder) over the right shoulder while Iyengars wear it over the left shoulder. Madisars are available in a variety of materials such as silk, cotton, cotton-silk blends, polyester-cotton blends, etc. These days a version of the madisar is also tied using the 6-yard sari. Though not as traditional, it is easier and more convenient to wear. |
31. Mekhela chador
32. Mundu
The mundu (Malayalyam: മുണ്ട്; pronounced [muɳɖɨ]) is a garment worn around the waist in Kerala, the Tulunadu region, and the Maldive Islands. It is closely related to the dhoti, sarong, and lungi. In South Kanara, a district of Karnataka state, the Tulu speaking folk and Beary community also wear the mundu. It is normally woven in cotton and coloured white or cream. The colour is dependent on whether the cotton is bleached or unbleached. A kaddar mundu is made using handlooms. When unbleached, the mundu is called a neriyathu. In modern times, two types of mundu are prevalent - the single and the double. A single mundu is draped once around the waist, while the double is folded in half before draping. A mundu is usually starched before use.
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33. Naga shawl
34. Nehru jacket
The Nehru jacket is a hip-length tailored coat for men or women, with a mandarin collar, and with its front modelled on the South Asian achkan or sherwani, an apparel worn by Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru, the Prime Minister of India from 1947 to 1964. Ironically, Nehru himself rarely wore the jacket named after him, preferring the more traditional sherwani/achkan or Western-style suit and tie.
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35. Onnara
Onnara is a form of underwear for women of all ages. It is the traditional underwear among the Hindu women in Kerala (southern most state of India). A cotton (handloom) cloth of size 6 muzham X 3 muzham (1 muzam = 1.5 ft approx.) is used to drape around the waist, in a particular style) under the outer garment (pavada, saree, or mundu). Onnara (Thaar) is an undergarment for women, and is not for males.
Onnara is also called "Thaar", in some parts of the State. The word is more often used in the southern part of Kerala; Onnara is mostly a northern Kerala usage. However, there are certain differences in wearing Thaar, over Onnara. Thaar is simpler than the Onnara in the wearing style. There are different types of Thaar too. |
36. Paithani
Paithani (Marathi: पैठणी) is a variety of sari, named after the Paithan town in Aurangabad Maharashtra state where they are woven by hand. Made from very fine silk, it is considered as one of the richest saris in Maharashtra.
Paithani is characterised by borders of an oblique square design, and a pallu with a peacock design. Plain as well as spotted designs are available. Among other varieties, single colored and kaleidoscope-colored designs are also popular. The kaleidoscopic effect is achieved by using one color for weaving lengthwise and another for weaving widthwise. |
37. Pasapali Sari
Pasapali Sari (Oriya: ପଶାପାଲି ଶାଢ଼ି) is a handloom sari weaved mainly in the Bargarh district of Orissa, India. The name Pasapali is derived from pasā or gambling games using Chess board. These saris have intricate check patterns of contrast colors resembling the chess boards which gives it such name.
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38. Pashmina
Pashmina is the finest type of cashmere wool. The textiles made from it were first woven in Kashmir, India. The name comes from Persian: پشمینه / pašmina, meaning "made from wool". The wool comes from changthangi or Pashmina goat, which is a special breed of goat indigenous to high altitudes of the Himalayas in India, Nepal and Pakistan. Pashmina shawls are hand spun, woven and embroidered in Nepal and Kashmir, and made from fine cashmere fibre.
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39. Patiala salwar
A Patiala salwar (also called a pattian walee salwar) (also pronounced as Shalwar in Urdu) is a type of female trousers which has its roots in Patiala City in the Northern region of Punjab state in India. The King of Patiala in earlier times had its Royal dress as Patiala Salwar. The Patiala Salwar has a close resemblance to the pathani Suit which has similar loose lowers as salwars and long knee-length top known as Kameez. Over the decades the dress now is not worn by men but has classically transformed itself with new cuts and styling into women's Patiala Salwar.
The reason why the patiala dress is preferred by most of the women of Punjab and other regions of Northern India is its comfort and durability in summers. Since the patiala salwar is very loose and stitched with pleats it is a very comfortable outfit to wear. Its distinguishing characteristic is folds of cloth stitched together that meet at the bottom. Patiala salwars require double the length of material to get stitched. The fall of the pleats of the Patiala Salwar is such that it gives a beautiful draping effect. Patiala salwar with lots of pleats is also referred to as Patiala "Shahi" salwar since it was worn by the shahi (royal) people of Patiala city in state of Punjab. The Patiala salwar is worn as an alternative to the traditional Punjabi Salwar Suit. |
40. Pencil suit
Pencil Suit is a variety of salwar kameez which has become a recent fashion trend. This basically follows the principles of a pencil skirt and merges it with the traditional salwar kameez.
While salwars are loosely-fitted pants, pencil suits have tightly-fitted pants that follow the contours of the lady’s leg. It differs from the churidar only in the lack of the ruches or the “churis” near the ankle. The kameez is of thigh length and has a side seam left open below the waist-line. This attire is often marched with a dupatta of matching or contrasting color. As most of the designer suits, a pencil suit is also embellished with beads, mirror work, zardozi or zari work. Simple and plain variants of the suit are also available for daily wear. |
41. Punjabi ghagra
The Punjabi ghagra was a piece of clothing which could vary from 9 to 25 yards and would be worne with a kurti/kurta and Phulkari covering the head by women in the Punjab. The picture on the right shows the styles worn by Saraiki speaking women in west Punjab.
The materials used for making ghagras were either malmal or muslin. The edge would be finished with either a row of pin tucks, embroidery, gota or by putting a border of daryai (a kind of cloth).The malmal ghagra was then starched (maandi) along with mica or vark which would shine in the sun. Vark was like thin layers of stiff paper which was crushed and added to maandi (starch). Other materials used for ghagras were hari-shael, latha, saatan (satin), embroidered phulkari, parachute cloth etc. Parachute cloth was a silky material and perhaps similar to the textile used to make parachutes. For formal occasions the ghagra was made of expensive material with some embellishments like gota or embroidery. With the development of Punjabi Salwar Suit, the ghagra would be worn over the salwar when going outdoors. Women were expected to continue to wear the Ghagra over the salwar until old age or until at least the eldest child got married. It was also customary to wear the Ghagra one festive occasions and when attending funeral. Eventually, the Punjabi ghagra went out of use and the Punjabi Salwar Suit became to be worn on its own. However, it is customary for brides to wear a variation of the ghagra known as the lehngha. |
42. Punjabi Tamba and Kurta
The tamba, which is also called tehmat is the Punjabi version of the lungi which has folds at the front and is the traditional dress for Punjabi men. The tamba is worn by Bhangra dancers. Although the use of the Punjabi tehmat has declined in recent years, being replaced by the pajamma, men can be seen wearing the tehmat in Punjab and its use has not completely stopped.
When women wear the tehmat, it is referred to as a laacha. The laacha is worn in a like manner to the tehmat except it has more folds. |
43. Salwar (Punjabi) Suit
The Punjabi salwar suit is the traditional attire of Punjab and is known for its lively hues, rich fabrics and embroidery. The punjabi suit features three parts - a kameez top, salwar bottom and dupatta scarf. The women's punjabi salwar suit style has become popular all over the sub-continent and beyond reaching even the remote parts of Ladakh. The outfit has been a part of Punjabi tradition for centuries whether as the suthan jhaga ensemble or the salwar jhaga (kameez) combination.
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44. Sari
A sari, saree or shari[note 1] is a South Asian female garment that consists of a drape varying from five to nine yards (4.57 meters to 8.23 meters) in length and two to four feet (60 cm to 1.20 m) in breadth that is typically wrapped around the waist, with one end draped over the shoulder, baring the midriff.
The sari is usually worn over a petticoat (called 'parkar' (परकर) in Marathi lahaṅgā or lehenga in the north; pavadai in Tamil, pavada (or occasionally langa) in Malayalam, Kannada and Telugu, chaniyo, parkar, ghaghra, or ghagaro in the west; and shaya in eastern India), with a fitted upper garment commonly called a blouse (ravika in the south and choli elsewhere). The blouse has short sleeves and is usually cropped at the midriff. The sari is associated with grace and is widely regarded as a symbol of Indian, Pakistani, Nepalese, Bangladeshi and Sri Lankan culture. |
45. Shahtoosh
Shahtoosh (also written shahtush, a Persian word meaning "king of fine wools") is the name given to a specific kind of shawl, which is woven with the down hair of the Tibetan antelope (chiru), by master weavers of Kashmir. The Shahtoosh shawl is now a banned item with possession and sale being illegal in most countries for the Chiru is an endangered species under CITES. However, the weaving of Shahtoosh shawls continues in secret in Kashmir, India; due to high demand by western buyers. The estimated market value of one Shahtoosh shawl is around $5000–6000.
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46. Sherwani
Sherwani (Hindi: शेरवानी; Urdu: شیروانی Bengali: শেরওয়ানি) is a long coat-like garment worn in South Asia, very similar to an Achkan or doublet. It was traditionally associated with the aristocracy of the Indian subcontinent. It is worn over the Kurta and Churidar, Khara pajama, a salwar. It can be distinguished from the achkan by the fact that it is often made from heavier suiting fabrics, and by the presence of a lining.
After the independence of Pakistan, Mohammad Ali Jinnah frequently wore the Sherwani and made it the national dress of Pakistan. |
47. Sindhi dress
Sindhi women wear the Shalwar kameez or the sari and the men wear the shalwar kameez or the kurta with pyjamma. However, before the adoption of the Shalwar kameez and the sari, Sindhis had their own traditional costumes.Until the 1930s the suthan and cholo was the typical dress for all women of Sindh.
In the past, the younger women wore velvet or amber pyjama (suthan) both at home and outside. Also they wore a long skirt (jablo) on top and a thick poplin blouse (koti) and a white rawa (a muslin head scarf). Middle aged and young ladies wore churidar pyjama (sorhi suthan). Elderly ladies used to wear a white sheet (chaadar) to cover her body with only a peep hole (akhiri) deftly contrived. Over time, older ladies started to wear the Salwar Kurta with Slippers (sapato). The original dress of the Sindhi male was dhoti, jamo (top) and achi pagirhi (White pagri). The traditional clothes of Sindh can still be seen on men and women today. |
48. Sonepuri Sari
Sonepuri Sari or Bomkai Sari is produced by the “Bhulia” community of Subarnapur district of Orissa, India. In particular, the famous sari designs Bomkai are the traditional designs that was produced in the village named Bomkai of Ganjam district of Orissa. During the time of Ramai Dev the then ruler of Patna it was introduced in Sonepur.Sonepur handloom sarees, Sonepuri paatas and silk sarees are popular items displayed at various fashion shows.
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49. Tangaliya Shawl
A Tangaliya Shawl is a handwoven, GI protected shawls and textile made by the Dangasia community from Schedule Caste in Gujarat, India.
The 700-year old indigenous craft is native to the Surendranagar district, of Saurashtra-region of the state. Traditional variations like Ramraj, Charmalia, Dhunslu, and Lobdi are woven in village clusters of Dedara, Vastadi, Godavari and Vadla within the district. The textile is usually used as shawl and wraparound skirt by women of the Bharwad shepherd community of Wankaner, Amreli, Dehgam, Surendranagar, Joravarnagar, Botad, Bhavnagar and Kutch area. |
50. Uttariya
An uttariya is a piece of dress in India. It is scarf-like, and descends from the back of the neck to curl around both arms, and can be used to drape the top half of the body. It was usually made of fine cotton, but almost never of silk.
It is still worn, especially in South and East India, and may be worn over a shirt in modern times. It was usually used in combination with the antariya, an ancient version of the dhoti, held with a sash or kayabandh. The uttariya could also be used as a turban, by both men and women. Lay brothers of the Buddhist community would typically be dressed with the antariya, accompanied by an uttariya and a larger chadder, all colored in saffron. |
51. Zari
Zari (or Jari) is an even thread traditionally made of fine gold or silver used in traditional Bengali, Indian, Pakistani and Persian garments, especially as brocade in saris etc. This thread is woven into fabrics, primarily made of silk to create intricate patterns. Traditional textile weaving in Iran (Persia) have long tradition of Zari, especially in Zardozi embroidery. It is believed this tradition started during the Mughal era. Today, in most fabrics, zari is not made of real gold and silver, but has cotton or polyester yarn at its core, wrapped by golden/silver metallic yarn.
Zari is the main material in most silk sarees and gharara. It is also used in other garments made of silk, like skirts, tops and vettis. |